Visit the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna to See Mosaics

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by Henk Bekker

in Emilia Romagna, Italy, Ravenna

The UNESCO World Cultural Heritage-listed Church of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo has some of the most impressive and interesting Late Antiquity and Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna, Italy.

The Three Kings / Magie mosaic is one of the best-known in the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna. The mosaic dates from the sixth century but the faces are clearly too refined to be the originals.

The Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo is one of the top sights to see when visiting Ravenna near Venice and Bologna. Ravenna has eight UNESCO World Cultural Heritage-listed sites of major early Christian monuments and Byzantine mosaics, with this church amongst the most interesting. Sant’Apollinare Nuovo was the palatine church of the Ostrogoth King Theodoric the Great, thus adding interesting historical side notes to the art of the magnificent wall mosaics.

Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna

Nave Mosaics of Sant'Apollinare Basilica in Ravenna

The church of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo is an early-sixth-century basilica, originally serving as the palatine church of the Ostrogoth King Theodoric. It was originally dedicated as an Arian church to Christ the Redeemer. In 561, it was re-dedicated as a Roman Catholic Church to St Martin of Tours, and in 856, it was named Sant’Apollinare Nuovo after the remains of Saint Apollinaris were moved from the similarly named Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe (which is also worth visiting).

→ For more on Theodoric the Great and Arianism in Ravenna, see The Arian Baptistery in Ravenna.

Exterior of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna

The exterior of the church is rather plain and unremarkable except for a rather attractive 38-m (125-ft) high cylindrical campanile of Ottonian design, erected probably in the tenth century. The simple marble arcade is from the sixteenth century, when many of the mosaics in the church were destroyed.

In contrast to the Basilica of San Vitale, which is almost entirely eastern in appearance, the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo shows an interesting fusion of eastern and western style influences. The mosaics are clearly Byzantine in character, while the long nave (42 x 21 m / 138 x 68 ft) without a protruding transept is more typical Italian in style.

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Mosaics of the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo

The interior of the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo is almost bare, which helps to draw attention to the overwhelming mosaics on the upper lateral walls on both sides of the nave.

The interior of the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo is almost bare, which helps to draw attention to the overwhelming mosaics on the upper lateral walls on both sides of the nave. (In contrast, Sant’Apollinare in Classe lost its lateral wall mosaics but preserved the very impressive decoration of the apse and triumphal arch.)

Even though a large number of mosaics in the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo were lost through the centuries, the remaining artworks are amongst the most impressive mosaics in the world. Originally, mosaics would have covered most of the interior. However, many were lost in earthquakes, wars, building alterations, and botched restoration attempts.

The surviving mosaics cover the lateral walls of both sides of the nave. Art historians argue about the exact dating of some mosaics, but almost all are at least from the sixth century. The question is just which part – before or after Theodoric?

Mosaics on the Lateral Walls of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna

Mosaics in Sant'Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna

The mosaics on the lateral walls of the main nave in Sant’Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna are in three horizontal bands:

Scenes from the Life of Chris

Christ divides the sheep from the goats

The upper band, above window level, dates from the reign of Theodoric the Great. The 13 panels on each side of the nave illustrate miracles from the life of Christ (left wall) and the Passion (right wall). Typically Arian, there is no depiction of the crucifixion, and Christ is still beardless on the left wall. This is less common in the orthodox tradition, but not unknown. Other Arian symbols were removed when the basilica became Roman Catholic.

Prophets

The middle band shows biblical figures (prophets) alternating with windows.

The middle band shows biblical figures (prophets) alternating with windows. As with the upper band, these mosaics date from the time of Theodoric the Great and are in the Greek-Roman style of individualistic facial features. Different items and symbols accompany every figure.

Procession of the Virgins and Saints

the mosaics feature a procession of 22 virgins led by the Three Kings (Magi) from the port of Classe towards the Madonna with Child.

The lower band is more Byzantine in style with figures lacking individuality and mostly dates from around half a century later. By this time, Arianism was outlawed and the church already Orthodox (Roman Catholic) and rededicated to Saint Martin of Tours.

On the left wall, the mosaics feature a procession of 22 virgins led by the Three Kings (Magi) from the port of Classe towards the Madonna with Child. On the right wall, 26 martyrs are led from the Palace of Theodoric towards Christ, surrounded by angels. Christ previously held a book, which was replaced by a scepter following restoration work in 1860.

Erasing Theodoric from History

Palace of Theodoric Mosaic in Sant’Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna

Note the curtains in the Palace of Theodoric. After Byzantium took direct control of Ravenna, references to Theodoric and his time were removed and replaced by these curtains. Some pillars still feature the original hands of such persons that were not tiled out.

Similarly, the walls of Classe are now depicted as plain masonry, while the original had figures in front of the port city’s defensive walls.

(The nearby attraction of the ruins of Theodoric’s Palace is now considered to be the ruins of a church rather than the famously sumptuous palace of the Ostrogoth king.)

Visiting the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo

Walls of Classe Mosaic

The Basilica of Sant’Apollinare is located just a few blocks from the train station to the west of the town center. If walking to and from other top sights, it is easy to see the tomb of Dante and the Arian Baptistry en route.

See Visiting UNESCO-Listed Sights in Ravenna for opening hours and ticket information.

NEXT: Basilica of San Vitale

The modern-looking pattern with bright colors on the intrados in the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia in Ravenna.

Time-slot reservations are currently essential to see the Mausoleum of Galla Placida and the Neonian Baptistry in Ravenna. This is easiest done when buying the tickets online.

  1. Top Sights to See in Ravenna
  2. UNESCO-Listed Sites in Ravenna
  3. Visiting UNESCO-Listed Sites in Ravenna – Opening Hours and Tickets
  4. Neonian Baptistery & Archbishop’s Chapel
  5. Arian Baptistery
  6. Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo
  7. Basilica of San Vitale
  8. Mausoleum of Galla Placidia
  9. Mausoleum of Theodoric
  10. Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe
  11. National Museum of Ravenna
  12. Transportation to Ravenna. Book luggage storage online for stopovers or check cheap hotel prices.

Book Guided tours of Ravenna — tours are generally three hours. For tours not including admission fees, around €12 per person must be added. Small groups and families may find better value in private tours.

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