Visit the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare (St Apollinaris) in Classe, a large, UNESCO-listed Byzantine church near Ravenna, to see the 6th-century apse mosaics and splendid architecture.
The Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe is one of the best-preserved churches from antiquity. The architecture is beautiful, but the magnificent Byzantine mosaics in the apse make this church near Ravenna absolutely worth visiting. It was inscribed on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list as “an outstanding example of the early Christian basilica”.
Basilica of Saint Apollinare in Classe near Ravenna
The Basilica of St Apollinaris in Classe was erected in the mid-6th century and consecrated in AD 549 by Archbishop Maximianus. It is thus a contemporary of San Vitale but slightly older than the similarly named Basilica of St Apollinare Nuovo in central Ravenna.
The large Byzantine brick basilica follows the typical layout of a central nave with two side aisles and no transepts. The ceiling is open with the woodwork exposed. The nartyx portal in front of the church is a later addition. The round Romanesque campanile, added in the 10th century, remains the tallest church bell tower in the Ravenna region.
The 24 Greek marble columns of the nave are topped by capitals depicting leaves blowing in the wind. Both columns and capitals were purposely produced for this church and not recycled from earlier buildings. The 18th-century frescoes are of archbishops. Marble and mosaics similar to Sant’Apollinare Nuovo originally covered the walls, but these were stripped over the centuries.
Sarcophagi from different eras are in the side aisles — note the prevalence of peacocks, a bird frequently seen in art in the Emilia-Romagna region. A small section of the original mosaic floor is exposed at the rear of the church.
Byzantine Mosaics in Sant’Apollinare in Classe
St Apollinaris in Classe is one of the finest basilicas that survived from antiquity. Although the architecture and state of preservation are interesting on their own, the main reason for visiting is the magnificent Byzantine mosaics in the apse, presbytery, and triumphal arch. These date from the 6th to 12th centuries.
Mosaics in the Apse
The mosaic in the apse dates from the 6th century and may be divided thematically into two sections:
- The upper half illustrates the Transfiguration of Jesus Christ, steered by the hand of God. In this event, Jesus is revealed as divine to his disciples Peter, John, and James (here symbolized by the three lambs) in the presence of the two Old Testament prophets Moses and Elijah. The face of Christ is on the bejewelled cross at the center of a blue night with 99 silver and golden stars.
- At the center of the lower level is Saint Apollinaris — a position traditionally reserved for depictions of Christ. He is surrounded by twelve lambs symbolizing the disciples, or faithful in general. Trees, flowers, rocks, and birds add variety and color to the rest of the mosaic. (A sinopia in the National Museum of Ravenna shows that a variety of large birds, rather than the lambs, were originally planned.)
The themes were specifically selected for the church and period:
- The Transfiguration is an occasion when Jesus Christ is revealed to be both human and God (Matthew 17:1-9, Mark 9:2-8, Luke 9:28-36). This was in contrast to the Arian doctrine that considered Christ to have only gradually grown into being divine. The mosaic clearly illustrated that the Arian heresy is wrong. (See the Arian Baptistery for a full explanation and the role Arianism played in Ravenna.)
- The prominent position of St Apollinaris illustrates that Ravenna should have some independence from papal authority in Rome due to the early establishment of this bishopric by a disciple of St Peter — see below.
The mosaics between the windows are four prominent bishops of Ravenna. The group scene on the left apse wall shows Emperor Constantine IV granting privileges to Ravenna, while the right wall has scenes of sacrifices to God by Abel, Abraham, and Mechisedek. These date from the 7th century.
Mosaics on the Triumphal Arch
At the top of the triumphal arch, facing the nave, is Christ surrounded by the four evangelists. (The winged calf symbolising Luke has a face that could have inspired Picasso.) Below them, 12 lambs emerge from the holy cities of Jerusalem and Bethlehem. These mosaics are probably from the 9th century.
The palm trees, symbols of justice, and the two archangels, Michael and Gabriel, are older and from the 7th century. The bust of Matthew and possibly of Luke are the newest mosaics, dating only from the 12th century.
For a more detailed description, see also Sacred Destinations.
Why Such a Big Church in Tiny Classe?
Why does Classe, a tiny village to the south of Ravenna, have such a large basilica? This is easily explained from history and Latin.
Classe is derived from classis, Latin for fleet. During the Roman period, it was the home base of the second permanent fleet with space for around 250 vessels. It was thus an important harbor, even at times when Ravenna was without political significance.
However, silting means that the coastline is now a good 10 km (6 miles) from Classe. A special shipping canal links modern Ravenna Port to the Mediterranean Sea.
Who Was St Apollinaris?
The altar in the center of the nave of the basilica marks the spot where Saint Apollinaris of Ravenna experienced his martyrdom. But who was he?
Traditionally, St Apollinaris (Sant’Apollinare) is considered a disciple of St Peter and the first bishop of Ravenna. He was persecuted for years before he died after a brutal mob beating in Classis.
Most of his relics are now in the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna. Some smaller items are in Germany in Düsseldorf and Remagen, which is more famous for the bridge over the Rhine that played such an important role at the end of the Second World War.
St Apollinaris is the patron saint of Düsseldorf, Ravenna, and the larger Emilia-Romagna region. As a miracle worker, he is considered effective against, amongst others, epilepsy, gout, and venereal diseases.
Visitor’s Information: Sant’Apollinare in Classe near Ravenna
Opening Hours & Tickets
The Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe is open Monday to Saturday from 8:30 to 19:30 and on Sunday afternoons from 13:30 to 19:30. (Expect shorter hours during the winter season — other sights in Ravenna are open only 10:00 to 17:00 from November to early March.)
Admission to the church is €5 and not included in other Ravenna Mosaic 3 or 5-site passes. EU youths (18 to 25) pay €2, and children under 18 enter for free. Admission is free for all on the first Sunday of each month.
It is possible to save on admission when buying tickets for several sights simultaneously. A good offer is €10 for admission to Sant’Apollinare in Classe, the Mausoleum of Theoderic, and the Ravenna National Museum within three days. Cumulative tickets are also available with other minor sights in Classe, but note these are of limited interest and have shorter hours. Time is often better spent in Ravenna.
Transportation to St Apollinare Basilica in Classe from Ravenna
The Basilica of Saint Apollinare in Classe, Via Romea Sud, 224, 48124 Classe RA, is in the small village of Classe, around 5 km (3 miles) to the sound of Ravenna. Ample parking is available near the church.
Classe may also be reached by public transportation. The quick, direct train from Ravenna takes less than 10 minutes but only runs a few times per day. Buses, usually nr 4 or 176, are available roughly hourly, but there are gaps in the timetable.
Cycling from Ravenna is a good option. The route is flat with dedicated cycling paths, including all the way from Ravenna’s town limits to the basilica. (The cycling path is to the left of the main road when cycling towards Classe.) Several bicycle rental services are available in Ravenna, including one directly next to the station. Expect to cycle around 20 minutes each way.
NEXT: National Museum of Ravenna
More Articles on Ravenna, Italy
Time-slot reservations are currently essential to see the Mausoleum of Galla Placida and the Neonian Baptistry in Ravenna. This is easiest done when buying the tickets online.
- Top Sights to See in Ravenna
- UNESCO-Listed Sites in Ravenna
- Visiting UNESCO-Listed Sites in Ravenna – Opening Hours and Tickets
- Neonian Baptistery & Archbishop’s Chapel
- Arian Baptistery
- Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo
- Basilica of San Vitale
- Mausoleum of Galla Placidia
- Mausoleum of Theodoric
- Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe
- National Museum of Ravenna
- Transportation to Ravenna. Book luggage storage online for stopovers or check cheap hotel prices.
Book Guided tours of Ravenna — tours are generally three hours. For tours not including admission fees, around €12 per person must be added. Small groups and families may find better value in private tours.