Top Castles to Visit in Europe: Burg Eltz near the Rhine in Germany

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by Henk Bekker

in Germany, Rhine River

Burg Eltz, near Koblenz at the confluence of the Mosel and Rhine Rivers, is one of the most romantic medieval castles in Germany and all of Europe.

Aerial view of Burg Eltz
Burg Eltz near the Mosel and Koblenz in Germany © Mosellandtouristik GmbH

The impossibly romantic Burg Eltz is an authentic medieval castle beautifully located in an isolated valley in the Rhineland off the Mosel River near Koblenz and Cochem in Germany. In contrast to other castles in the Rhine area, Burg Eltz has never been taken in war. It thus maintains its historical appearance without having had to resort to nineteenth-century historicist architecture. Day trip tours from Frankfurt to Burg Eltz are often available in the summer season. Public transportation to Burg Eltz is also an easy option.

A Brief History of Burg Eltz near Koblenz

Reverse side of a DM 500 note
Burg Eltz once featured on postage stamps and the reverse of the DM500 note – the largest denomination used in Germany prior to the introduction of the euro.

The origins of Burg Eltz date from the mid-twelfth century and minor parts actually survived from this period. The castle was built on an elliptical rock that is surrounded by the Elzbach (Elz Stream), a minor tributary of the Moselle River.

The castle was originally built to protect a trade route from rich agricultural fields to the markets. In contrast to the many Rhine castles, enforcing tolls on river boats was not the main intention. (The Elz is appropriately referred to as a stream rather than a river.)

Burg Eltz Historical view

In 1268, the Eltz family split into three branches: the Kempenich, Rübenach, and Rodendorf lines. Due to the cost of building fortified castles, the three branches shared the fortified base of Burg Eltz and built three separate castle wings on top.

For all practical purposes, the families lived here as if in a modern-day condominium complex. Joint decisions were needed for making any major alterations to the property.

Only in 1815 did the whole castle again come into the possession of only one branch of the family when the Eltz-Kempenich line bought out the Eltz-Rübenach properties. (The Eltz-Rodendorf line died out in 1786.)

The Survival of Medieval Burg Eltz

Most castles in the Moselle and Rhine River valleys were destroyed over the centuries. However, Burg Eltz and the Marksburg on the Rhine survived all attacks through a combination of their fortifications and the clever diplomacy of their owners.

Skillful diplomacy, more than the castle’s isolation, saved Burg Eltz from being destroyed in wars. The only time Burg Eltz was attacked, was between 1331 and 1336 when Baldwin, archbishop of Trier, tried to take the castle by force. Baldwin started to build a castle on the hill opposite Burg Eltz with the sole purpose of launching an attack on Burg Eltz from above. The ruins of Burg Trutzeltz can still be seen.

Although isolated, the owners of Burg Eltz managed to involve themselves in the politics of the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation. The family produced prince-electors in the form of archbishops of Trier and of Mainz – traditionally the most senior position in the German church, as well as ex-officio chancellor of the empire.

Even more useful was the services of Hans Anton zu Eltz-Üttingen in the French army during the War of Palatinate Succession (1688-9). Through his position, he could save Burg Eltz from being destroyed by the French armies.

Restoration of Burg Eltz in Germany

Burg Eltz Castle
© Dominik Ketz / Rheinland-Pfalz Tourismus GmbH

Burg Eltz was sympathetically restored during the 19th century to maintain its 17th-century appearance. In contrast to many castles in the region that were rebuilt during the 19th century in a false romantic notion of what a medieval castle should have looked like, Burg Eltz may be considered to be mostly authentic.

Since 2018, Jakob Graf von und zu Eltz has been in control of Burg Eltz. He represents the 34th generation of the Eltz family, which has owned the castle for around 800 years. Parts of Burg Eltz not open to the public are still used privately by the family. (Their main residence is in Eltville on the Rhine.)

Burg Eltz is open to the public daily during the summer season. Several transportation options are available, including by boat, train, and on foot. If driving, Burg Eltz is an easy day trip from larger German cities such as Frankfurt, Trier, and Cologne. Day trip tours from Frankfurt to Burg Eltz are often available.

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